When the FORNO line of products was created, we had only one goal in mind: To provide the best state of the art kitchen appliances to consumers just like you and me at a fraction of current retail prices. We are proud to present to you a new era of appliances that will revolutionize your kitchen.

Range Repair

For the home, kitchen and beyond, Forno manufactures appliances that homeowners have come to trust. Even a trustworthy appliance requires occasional maintenance or repair, however. If you’re in need of Forno appliance repair from experienced professionals, your local Appliance Helper can help.

Oven not heating 
The igniter is the most commonly defective part for an oven not heating. The igniter has two main functions. First, the igniter draws electrical current through the oven safety valve to open it. Second, the igniter gets hot enough to glow and ignite the gas in the oven burner. If the igniter gets weak, it will fail to open the safety valve correctly. If the valve does not open, the oven will not heat. To determine if the igniter is defective, observe the igniter when the oven is on. If the igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without igniting the gas flame, this indicates that the igniter is too weak to open the valve. If the igniter is weak, replace it. If the igniter does not glow at all, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it. 

Oven doesn't bake evenly 
If the bake element is burned out, the oven will only be heated by the broil element. This will cause the oven to heat unevenly. When the bake element is heating properly, it glows red hot. If the element does not glow red, this indicates that the element is not heating. Often, if the element has burned out, it will be visibly damaged. Inspect the bake element for holes or blisters. To determine if the bake element has burned out, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the bake element does not have continuity, replace it. 

Oven broiler not working 
The broiler element may have burned out. When the broil element is heating properly, it glows red hot. If the element does not glow red, this indicates that the element is not heating. Often, if the element has burned out, it will be visibly damaged. Inspect the broil element for holes or blisters. To determine if the broil element has burned out, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the broil element does not have continuity, replace it. 

Surface Element Board 
The surface element board has relays that regulate the power supply to the burners. If one or more of the relays fails, the surface element won’t work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this indicates that the surface element board is likely at fault. If only one surface element won’t work, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the surface element has continuity, the surface element board might be defective. 

Stove burner won't light 
The spark modules provides power to each surface burner spark electrode. If the burner is produces a weak spark, or if the burner sparks intermittently, the spark module might be defective. Before replacing the spark module, first check the spark electrode and the spark wire. If the spark electrode and spark wire are not at fault, the spark module is likely defective. If the spark module is defective, replace it. 

Oven temperature not accurate 
When the bake element is heating properly, it glows red hot. If the element does not glow red, this indicates that the element is not heating. Often, if the heating element has burned out, it will be visibly damaged. Inspect the heating element for holes or blisters. To determine if the bake element has burned out, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the bake element does not have continuity, replace it.

Refrigerator Repair

For the home, kitchen and beyond, Forno manufactures appliances that homeowners have come to trust. Even a trustworthy appliance requires occasional maintenance or repair, however. If you’re in need of Forno appliance repair from experienced professionals, your local Appliance Helper can help.

How To Repair A Refrigerator That's Making A Loud Noise 
Your fridge’s evaporator fan motor sits on grommets to keep it from rattling on the mounting bracket. In time, the grommets can become worn out or pull loose, and then the movement of the fan on its bracket will make noise. Unplug the fridge and take a look at the evaporator fan motor in the freezer compartment, behind the back panel. If the grommets are worn or loose, replace them. 

How To Repair A Leaking Refrigerator 
If your refrigerator has a dispenser for water or ice, it also has a solenoid controlled inlet valve that brings water from your supply line into your fridge to make that ice or to deliver that water. It’s possible that a leaky fridge has a leak or crack there. On most models, you’ll find the water inlet valve on the back of the fridge behind a panel near the bottom. Unplug the fridge and turn off the water supply. Check the connections on the water supply pipes to see if they are cracked or leaky: you may need to tighten or replace those connectors. Check the valve itself in the same way, as well as the outlet tubing. Replace anything cracked, abraded, brittle or broken. 

How To Repair A Refrigerator That Won't Run 
If you have a newer fridge, the compressor, fans, defrost system, and temperature might all be under the authority of an electronic control board. This makes home repair trickier, because the control boards determine so much, plus an electronic control board is costly and complicated. And for that same reason, it makes sense to eliminate other causes of fridge malfunction before you decided the electronic control board is the broken component. So if the fridge is not starting up, verify that power is not being supplied to the compressor but is being supplied to the control board. Check the external controls. Unplug the fridge and inspect the control board for evidence of burnt connections, deteriorated foil, or signs that arcing has occurred. 

Air Inlet Damper or Baffle 
The part of your fridge that is responsible for balancing air flow from the housing of the evaporator fan has a few names: diffuser, air damper, or baffle. On most refrigerators, it’s located where the chilled air comes into the food-holding part of the fridge, and it looks like louvered blinds. The air inlet damper doesn’t have an “off” setting on its knob, which distinguishes it from the cold control. You should be able to open and close it easily using the knob. But if it is stuck closed, insufficient cold air will come into the fridge and it will be too warm. The air inlet damper or baffle is housed in Styrofoam-lined plastic. On some fridges, air leakage is kept down via a foam seal – which can be rigid – so avoid breaking that when you jiggle the knob to see if it opens. Replace the air inlet damper if it’s stuck or doesn’t open the whole way. If there is an automatic temperature-sensing bulb attached, ensure it’s positioned correctly to measure the temperature inside the fridge and do its job adjusting the control.