Originally a German consumer electronic company, Grundig was founded in 1945 by Max Grundig and eventually headquartered in Nuremberg. It grew to become one of the leading radio, TV, recorder and other electronics goods manufacturers of Europe in the following decades of the 20th century. In the 1970s, Philips began acquiring Grundig AG's shares, leading to complete control in 1993. In 1998, Philips divested Grundig. In 2007, Koç Holding bought Grundig and put the brand under its home-appliances subsidiary Arcelik A.Ş. Koç is a publicly listed conglomerate with more than 80,000 employees.

Air Conditioner Repair

Air conditioner not cooling 
If the air filter is clogged, air cannot flow properly through the air conditioner. This greatly reduces the cooling capacity of the air conditioner. In addition, if the air filter is clogged, the evaporator coils will frost over. To remove debris from the air filter, try cleaning the filter. If it is not possible to clean the air filter, replace it. 

Why is My AC Fan Not Working? 
The dual shaft fan motor (or circulation fan motor) might be defective. The circulation fan motor has two fan blades: one on either side of the motor. On one side, the fan blade draws in outside air over the condensing coil to dissipate the heat. On the other side, the fan blade directs the air over the evaporator coil. The dual shaft fan motor has bearings that can loosen or bind over time. To determine if the motor bearings are defective, wiggle the motor shaft. If the motor shaft is loose, or if it won’t turn at all, replace the fan motor. 

My AC Compressor's Not Turning On 
The temperature control board provides voltage to the fan motor and compressor. If the control board is defective, it may stop providing voltage to the compressor. Control boards are often misdiagnosed. Before replacing the temperature control board, make sure you check more commonly defective parts—particularly the compressor overload, capacitor and the compressor itself. If you are certain that all of the other components are working properly, replace the temperature control board. 

My AC Won't Turn Off 
The condenser coils dissipate the heat as the refrigerant passes through the coils. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t be able to dissipate the heat as effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the air conditioner will become less efficient, causing the air conditioner to work harder to cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the air conditioner will not be able to maintain the proper temperature, and the compressor will run continuously in an attempt to cool the room. Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty. If the condenser coils are dirty, clean them. 

Why is my air conditioner making noise? 
When the compressor is wearing out, it generates more noise than usual. When this happens, it is not necessary to replace the compressor—compressors often last for years after they become noisy. However, if you would prefer to have a new compressor, have a licensed professional replace it. 

Dishwasher Repair

Dishwasher not cleaning Water Inlet Valve.  
The water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the dishwasher. If the valve is clogged or defective, the dishwasher won’t get enough water to clean dishes properly. If the water inlet valve is clogged, replace it. Do not attempt to clean the water inlet valve—cleaning the valve could make it more likely to fail.  

Dishwasher not draining Drain Impeller.  
The drain impeller pushes water through the drain hose and into the garbage disposer or drain line. If the impeller is broken, replace it.  

Dishwasher buttons not working Touchpad.  
First, confirm that the dishwasher display is working. If the display is still working, try pressing some of the touchpad buttons. If some of the buttons respond correctly but others don’t, it is likely that the touchpad is at fault. (Some manufacturers sell the touchpad separately from the control panel. Other manufacturers require that you purchase the touchpad and control panel together. If you cannot replace the touchpad individually, replace the touchpad and control panel.)  

Dishwasher lights flashing or blinking Heating Element.  
The heating element heats up the water to operating temperature. If the water doesn’t reach the proper temperature after a set amount of time, a light on the control panel might start flashing. To determine if the heating element has burned out, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the heating element does not have continuity, replace it.  

Dishwasher leaking Water Inlet Valve.  
The water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the dishwasher. If the water inlet valve is stuck open, the dishwasher will continue to fill with water until the dishwasher leaks or overflows. If the water inlet valve is at fault, replace it. Water inlet valves are not repairable—if the valve is defective, you must replace it.  

Dishwasher leaking from motor area Impeller and Seal Kit.  
First, try to determine the source of the leak. If the water is leaking from the motor shaft area, the motor shaft seal is likely defective. If the seal is defective, replace it. (Some manufacturers sell the seal independently of the impeller. Other manufacturers require that you purchase the impeller and seal together. Still other manufacturers require that you purchase the entire pump and motor assembly instead of the impeller and seal. It is usually more cost effective to replace the impeller and seal kit rather than the pump and motor assembly.)  

Dishwasher won't start Door Switch.  
The door switch prevents the dishwasher from running while the door is open. If the door switch is defective, the switch will prevent the dishwasher from running even when the door is closed. To determine if the door switch is at fault, use a multimeter to test the switch for continuity. If the switch does not have continuity, replace it.  

Dishwasher won't latch Door Hinge.  
If the door hinges are damaged, the door won’t be able to latch properly. Inspect the door hinges for damage. If a hinge is bent or broken, replace it.  

Dishwasher dispenser not dispensing soap Bi-Metal.  
The bi-metal actuator is a metal loop which acts as a latch for the dispenser door. As electricity is applied to the bi-metal, it deforms and bends away from the latch, releasing it. If the bi-metal is burned out, it won’t release the dispenser door. To determine if the bi-metal has burned out, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the bi-metal does not have continuity, replace it. In addition, make sure that the dishwasher is getting enough water. If the water level is too low, the wash motor may not draw enough current through the bimetal, causing the bimetal not to bend enough to work properly.  

Dryer Repair

Dryer Won't Start 
Thermal Fuse. The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown. A multimeter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse. 

Dryer stopped spinning 
Drive Belt. The drive belt is a very long, slender belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor pulley. Over time, the belt can break from normal use. If the belt is broken, the dryer won’t turn. To quickly determine if the belt is broken, reach into the dryer and turn the drum by hand. If the drum spins very easily, the belt is likely broken. Next, inspect the belt to confirm that it is broken. If the belt is broken, replace it. 

 Dryer drum not turning 
Drive Belt. The drive belt is a very long, slender belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor pulley. Over time, the belt can break from normal use. If the belt is broken, the dryer won’t turn. To quickly determine if the belt is broken, reach into the dryer and turn the drum by hand. If the drum spins very easily, the belt is likely broken. Next, inspect the belt to confirm that it is broken. If the belt is broken, replace it. 

Dryer takes too long 
Air Flow Problem. If the vent is clogged or partially clogged, it will restrict the airflow through the dryer, substantially increasing the drying time. To ensure proper dryer performance, you should clean your dryer’s venting system at least once per year. 

Dryer overheating 
Heating Element. The heating element warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. If the element is partially shorted out, it may produce heat continuously, even if the dryer has reached the proper temperature. When this happens, the dryer gets too hot. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multimeter to test each terminal for continuity to the case. If the heating element has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element is shorted out, replace it. 

Dryer won't stop 
Air Flow Problem. If the vent is clogged or partially clogged, it will restrict the airflow through the dryer, substantially increasing the drying time. To ensure proper dryer performance, you should clean your dryer’s venting system at least once per year. 

Dryer not heating 
Thermal Fuse. The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown. A multimeter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.  

Dryer tripping breaker 
The Circuit Breaker is Weak. Over time, circuit breakers can weaken. If the circuit breaker is weak, it may trip too often, even if the amperage draw is below the limit. If you have already checked all of the potentially defective dryer components, consider having an electrician replace the circuit breaker. 

Dryer makes noise 
Drive Belt. The drive belt is a very long, slender belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor. Over time, the drive belt can become frayed or otherwise damaged. If the drive belt is frayed or damaged, the dryer will be noisy as it turns. Inspect the drive belt for signs of wear. If the drive belt is worn, replace it. 

Range Repair

Oven not heating 
The igniter is the most commonly defective part for an oven not heating. The igniter has two main functions. First, the igniter draws electrical current through the oven safety valve to open it. Second, the igniter gets hot enough to glow and ignite the gas in the oven burner. If the igniter gets weak, it will fail to open the safety valve correctly. If the valve does not open, the oven will not heat. To determine if the igniter is defective, observe the igniter when the oven is on. If the igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without igniting the gas flame, this indicates that the igniter is too weak to open the valve. If the igniter is weak, replace it. If the igniter does not glow at all, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it. 

Oven doesn't bake evenly 
If the bake element is burned out, the oven will only be heated by the broil element. This will cause the oven to heat unevenly. When the bake element is heating properly, it glows red hot. If the element does not glow red, this indicates that the element is not heating. Often, if the element has burned out, it will be visibly damaged. Inspect the bake element for holes or blisters. To determine if the bake element has burned out, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the bake element does not have continuity, replace it. 

Oven broiler not working 
The broiler element may have burned out. When the broil element is heating properly, it glows red hot. If the element does not glow red, this indicates that the element is not heating. Often, if the element has burned out, it will be visibly damaged. Inspect the broil element for holes or blisters. To determine if the broil element has burned out, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the broil element does not have continuity, replace it. 

Stove heating element not working 
The surface element board has relays that regulate the power supply to the burners. If one or more of the relays fails, the surface element won’t work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this indicates that the surface element board is likely at fault. If only one surface element won’t work, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the surface element has continuity, the surface element board might be defective. 

Stove burner won't light 
The spark modules provides power to each surface burner spark electrode. If the burner is produces a weak spark, or if the burner sparks intermittently, the spark module might be defective. Before replacing the spark module, first check the spark electrode and the spark wire. If the spark electrode and spark wire are not at fault, the spark module is likely defective. If the spark module is defective, replace it. 

Oven temperature not accurate 
When the bake element is heating properly, it glows red hot. If the element does not glow red, this indicates that the element is not heating. Often, if the heating element has burned out, it will be visibly damaged. Inspect the heating element for holes or blisters. To determine if the bake element has burned out, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the bake element does not have continuity, replace it. 

Oven light is out 
If the oven light is out, the entire light assembly may need to be replaced. Often the light assembly components are not sold separately. 

Oven won't turn on 
When the bake element is heating properly, it glows red hot. If the element does not glow red, this indicates that the element is not heating. Often, if the heating element has burned out, it will be visibly damaged. Inspect the heating element for holes or blisters. To determine if the bake element has burned out, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the bake element does not have continuity, replace it. 

Oven not self-cleaning 
During the oven's self-cleaning cycle, the door lock switch activates the door lock motor to prevent the oven door from being opened. If the door lock motor and switch assembly is defective, the oven door will not unlock once the self-cleaning cycle is complete. On most ovens, you can open the oven door by removing certain screws or panels. Check your owner's manual for further instructions. 

Refrigerator Repair

My Refrigerator is Not Cooling 
Condenser Coils are Dirty. The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat as refrigerant passes through them. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t dissipate the heat effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the refrigerator becomes less efficient, causing the refrigerator to work harder to cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will not be able to maintain the proper temperature. Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty—if the condenser coils are dirty, clean them. 

Refrigerator water dispenser not working 
Water Tube in Door is Frozen. To determine if the water supply tube is frozen, disconnect the tube at the bottom of the door and blow air through it. If air does not pass through, this indicates that the water supply tube is frozen. If the water supply tube is frozen, thaw it out. In addition, ensure that the freezer is kept at the proper temperature. The freezer temperature should be kept from 0-10 degrees Fahrenheit. If the freezer is too cold, the water line may freeze. 

Why is my Refrigerator Not Making Ice? 
Freezer Temperature is Above 10 Degrees F (-12C). If the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12C), the ice maker will not produce ice cubes efficiently. The freezer temperature should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15C) for the ice maker to work properly. If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that the condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working properly. In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has likely failed. 

Refrigerator ice dispenser not working 
Dispenser Control Board. The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault. 

Refrigerator not defrosting 
Defrost Control Board. The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board, first test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective. 

Refrigerator is noisy or loud 
Fan Blade. If the refrigerator is noisy or loud, especially when one of the doors are opened, either the evaporator or condenser fan blade may be at fault. First, check out the evaporator fan blade in the freezer behind the back panel. Try turning it by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, check to see if the blade is rubbing against something or if something is caught in the blade. Additionally, check the condenser fan blade in the back underside of the refrigerator to determine if it has any obstructions. 

Refrigerator defrost drain clogged 
Clogged or Freezing Defrost Drain. The defrost drain might be clogged or frozen. If the defrost drain is frozen, the water will overflow the drain trough and drip down to the bottom of the compartment. If the defrost drain is frozen, thaw it out and ensure that the drain is clear of debris. 

Refrigerator freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm 
The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over. The defrost heater assembly turns on a few times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the airflow through the coils will be restricted, causing the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system. 

Why is My Refrigerator Leaking Water? 
Clogged or Freezing Defrost Drain. If the defrost drain is frozen, the water will overflow the drain trough and drip down to the bottom of the compartment. This water can eventually leak onto the floor. Check the defrost drain to determine if it is clogged or frozen. If the defrost drain is frozen, thaw the ice. In addition, flush the drain with hot water to ensure that it is clear of debris. 

Washer Repair

Grundig Washer won't spin 
Lid Switch Assembly. The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not spin. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multimeter to test the lid switch for continuity. If the lid switch does not have continuity, replace it. 

Grundig Washer is making loud noise 
Bearing. The tub bearing is mounted in the middle of the outer tub. The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. Replacing the tub bearing is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. If the tub bearing is defective, we recommend replacing both the outer tub and bearing. 

Grundig Washer won't agitate 
Agitator Repair Kit. If the washer won't agitate, replacing the agitator repair kit may solve the problem. The kit contains the agitator components that are most likely to wear out and/or fail. If any of the parts are worn out, stripped, or damaged, replace the kit. 

Grundig Washer won't drain 
Drain Pump. Sometimes, small objects or articles of clothing can get caught in the drain pump. To determine if anything is blocking the drain pump, remove the drain pump and check the pump for obstructions. If the drain pump is clear of obstructions, but is still noisy during the drain cycle, replace the drain pump. 

Grundig Washer vibrating or shaking 
Shock Absorber. One or more of the shock absorbers might be broken or worn out. The shock absorbers dampen the vibration of the washer tub. If one or more of the shock absorbers are worn out, the washer will vibrate or shake. Sometimes, when a washer is moved to another location, the shock absorbers can separate. Check the shock absorbers to ensure that they are positioned correctly, and inspect them for damage and wear. If one or more of the shock absorbers are broken or worn out, we recommend replacing all of the shock absorbers as a preventative measure. 

Grundig Washer fills slowly or will not fill at all 
Water Inlet Valve. The water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the washing machine. If the water inlet valve is defective, the wash may fill slowly or not fill at all. The water inlet valve requires sufficient water pressure to function properly. First, check the water pressure to determine that it is adequate. If the water pressure is adequate, try cleaning the screens inside the water inlet valve hose connection ports. If the washer still fills slowly, replace the water inlet valve. 

Grundig Washer leaking water 
Drain Pump. The drain pump pumps water out the drain hose. If the drain pump is cracked or damaged, or if the bearings are worn out, the drain pump may leak water. The drain pump is not repairable—if the pump is leaking water, replace it. 

Grundig Washer won't start 
Timer. The timer is frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the timer, first check all of the more commonly defective parts. To determine if the timer is defective, consult your washer’s wiring diagram and use a multimeter to test the timer for continuity. 

Grundig Washer won't spin or agitate 
Drive Belt. Inspect the drive belt to determine if it is broken or if it is loose on the pulleys. If the drive belt is broken or loose, replace it.