If you're looking for help fixing your Cafe Refrigerator, look no further! Our comprehensive Cafe Refrigerator Troubleshooting guide will explain common issues, provide tips, and show you how to read your model's error codes.

REFRIGERATOR NOT COOLING ENOUGH 
If the refrigerator is running, but not cooling at all or is not cold enough, several factors may influence the temperature. Check the following: 
Check the temperature control settings: 
For Dial or Digital Readout Models, adjust your temperature control by one number higher for a cooler temperature setting. 
For Actual Temperature Readout Models, adjust your temperature control by one degree lower for a lower temperature setting. 
Adjusting the temperature on actual temp models: 
If this is a new unit: 
Allow about 24 hours for the unit to cool down and stabilize after initial installation. If 24 has passed and the controls have been set properly but the unit is still warm, you may need to schedule service. Schedule a service appointment online. 
Make sure that both the refrigerator and freezer contain a reasonable food load. 
Closed containers of water, food or non-perishables will help to stabilize the temperature. This is because the items in the refrigerator absorb the cold, and actually work to help the refrigerator maintain a steady temperature, in much the same way that ice cubes keep a drink cold. When you open the refrigerator door, the cool air rushes out and warm air rushes in. The more items in the refrigerator, the less cool air is needed to keep the refrigerator cold. Therefore, when you close the door again, the refrigerator returns to a stable temperature more quickly. 
Make sure refrigerator and freezer doors can close and can properly seal. 
Check for large items, such as trays, platters, food items (like pizza boxes), and ice behind the ice bin that may interfere with door closure. 
If the doors do not close on their own when partially opened, you may need to adjust the leveling legs or rollers so that the front is higher than the back. Keep adjusting the level until the door closes on its own when you open the door halfway (45 degree angle). 
Make sure door gaskets are sealing properly. 
Adjust your door gasket: 
Check to see if large containers are placed against the back wall of the refrigerator. 
The large containers in back may block the flow of cold air and adversely affect the temperatures in the refrigerator. Move the tall items so they don't block the air flow. 
Check to see if the condenser is dirty. 
To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug the appliance before attempting any maintenance or cleaning. 
When the condenser coils get dirty the sealed system does not operate as efficiently. See Cleaning Condenser Coils on Refrigerator. 
Some refrigerators (2001 and newer) have condenser coils in a location that does not require them to be cleaned. If your model has coils that need to be cleaned, directions will be in your owner's manual. Download a copy of the Owner's Manual. 
2001 and newer compact refrigerators and smaller capacity top freezers still have coils to be cleaned. 
Be sure the refrigerator is installed in an area where the temperature will not go below 60 F (16 C) or exceed 110 F. 
Your refrigerator may not cool normally if installed outside of these temperature ranges. 
Verify that the refrigerator has proper air clearance. 
In general, at least 1 inch of clearance is required on each side, top and back of the refrigerator. Clearance requirements may vary model to model. Please consult your owner s user manual for specific requirements. Download a copy of the Owner's Manual and/or Installation Instructions. 
Make sure the interior lights are going off when the doors are closed. 
To check on most models, close the door slowly. The light should go out when the door opening is reduced to approximately 1 inch. If the light stays on, it may produce heat that affects your refrigerator temperature. 
If the refrigerator door is misaligned, the light will stay on. If the light stays on, your refrigerator will not cool properly. 
If the refrigerator has just been serviced, it could still be in a diagnostic mode. 
Disconnect power to your refrigerator for 30 seconds and this should clear the control panel. The refrigerator should now cool normally. 

REFRIGERATOR - NORMAL SOUNDS AND NOISES MADE 
The normal operation of your refrigerator will cause some sound. The following list contains sounds that are normal. 
A chirping/barking/woof/howl sound can sometimes be heard as the damper door opens/closes. 
A change in fan speed as the refrigerator responds to changes in temperature due to door opening. 
A clicking/tic-tock noise can be heard when the defrost timer switches on and off. 
A click can be heard when the temperature control unit turns the unit on and off. 
A boiling, gurgling, or knocking sound can be heard when the unit is running. This is caused by the circulation of refrigerant. 
Gurgling sound in the door. This sound can be heard just after the door is closed because of the water in drain tube trap area. It can last several seconds. 
A drip may be heard when defrost water is dripping into the pan beneath the refrigerator. 
The icemaker will make a loud noise when cubes are dropped into the bucket. 
A hum or click can be heard when the icemaker fills with water. This sound may be heard once or multiple times. 
A cracking or popping sound can be heard when evaporator coils on Top Mount No Frost models are cooling after defrost. 
Buzzing noises can be heard during and after getting water from the door dispenser. The noise should not last longer than 7 seconds after you stop dispensing. 
Buzzing noise not related to dispensing water (above), The icemaker will make a buzzing sound when it's trying to fill with water. If the buzzing noise can be heard approximately every 15 minutes, check and make sure the water is turned on to the icemaker. 
A snapping sound will be heard about 4 seconds after removing a glass from a dispenser. This is the sound of the dispenser chute closing. 
A clicking noise may be heard after a power shortage. This stems from the compressor trying to re-start itself. The noise could last for 3 to 5 minutes. 
A hissing, sizzling, buzzing, or arching noise may be heard on self-defrost models. This is produced when water drips on defrost heaters. 
On new refrigerators it is not unusual for the door to whistle or squeak. This occurs because the gasket (rubber material around inner perimeter of the door) is sealing very tightly. This noise will stop in a few days once the gasket becomes more pliable. 
Water lines supplying the refrigerator may make a loud bang due to a condition called "water hammer". Water hammer is a knocking or banging noise in a water line that occurs when the water valve opens and closes. This is caused by high water pressure from the house going into the refrigerator. 
A rattle or vibration noise will be heard if the icemaker is on but water is not supplied to it. It is recommended that when the unit is not hooked up to water that the icemaker is turned off. 

REFRIGERATOR NORMAL RUN TIME 
For refrigerators and freezers to maintain proper temperature, the compressor will run much of the time. Newer refrigerators have compressors that are designed to run 80% to 90% of the time. This makes them more energy efficient because the greatest amount of energy is used when the compressor cycles on as opposed to when the compressor is actually running. 
Average operating temperatures: 
Upright or Chest Freezer: 0 degrees F 
Refrigerator: -5 to +8 degrees F (Freezer); 34 to 42 degrees F (Fresh Food) 
Factors that contribute to run time: 
In extremely hot, humid areas, run time may approach 100%. 
Loading the refrigerator or freezer with a large amount of food, especially warm or hot foods. 
An empty or lightly-loaded freezer. The freezer should be at least 3/4 full to maintain proper temperatures and reduce time. 
When the door is opened, some of the heavy, cold air slides out of the cabinet, pulling warm air in at the top. 
Damaged or dirty door gaskets. See Refrigerator Interior and Gasket Care and Cleaning. 
Blocked air vents in the freezer section. 
Dirty condenser coils on models that do not have a NeverClean condenser.  
Interior light not turning off when the door is closed.

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