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Takagi Appliance Error Codes
The Takagi brand has delivered innovative hot water solutions for over 70 years and is sold exclusively by plumbing wholesalers and contractors. Takagi's selection of residential and commercial tankless water heaters are unmatched for quality and diversity. Anywhere hot water is needed, Takagi provides an energy-efficient solution with long-lasting value for years after it's installed. Takagi stands behind its products and customers with world-class service, combining cutting-edge technology with committed people who take pride in being the very best.
Water Heater Error Codes
CODE: 1
PROBLEM: Wrong dip switch setting Red LED / Computer Board Fault
CODE: 2
PROBLEM: Inlet Thermistor / Output Thermistor / Air-fuel ratio rod failure
CODE: 3
PROBLEM: Ignition Failure / Flame Loss
CODE: 4
PROBLEM: Abnormal Fan Motor
CODE: 5
PROBLEM: Warning for 991 error code / Abnormal Combustion
CODE: 6
PROBLEM: Abnormal Gas Valves / Abnormal Solenoid Gas Valve / False Flame Detection
CODE: 03
PROBLEM: Wrong dip switch setting
CODE: 10
PROBLEM: Warning for 991 Error Code
CODE: 11
PROBLEM: Ignition failure
CODE: 12
PROBLEM: Flame loss
CODE: 31
PROBLEM: Output Thermistor
CODE: 32
PROBLEM: Inlet Thermistor
CODE: 39
PROBLEM: Air-Fuel Ratio Rod Failure
CODE: 51
PROBLEM: Abnormal Gas Valves
CODE: 55
PROBLEM: Abnormal Solenoid Gas Valve
CODE: 61
PROBLEM: Abnormal Fan Motor
CODE: 70
PROBLEM: Computer board fault
CODE: 72
PROBLEM: False flame detection
CODE: 74
PROBLEM: Remote controller communication failure
CODE: 99
PROBLEM: Abnormal combustion
CODE: 031
PROBLEM: Wrong dip switch setting, possibly LP gas set when the fuel is Natural gas, or vice versa
CODE: 070
PROBLEM: Computer board failure
CODE: 072
PROBLEM: False flame detected
CODE: 074
PROBLEM: Remote control problem
CODE: 099
PROBLEM: Improper combustion
CODE: 101
PROBLEM: Improper combustion. Look for a blocked flue or chimney (or downdrafts in the chimney) or a problem with the draft inducer fan.
CODE: 111
PROBLEM: Ignition failure; the burners do not light. Check for a bad igniter, flame sensor, gas valve. Check for gas supply. Check for a blown fuse on the circuit board.
CODE: 121
PROBLEM: Burner flame lost. See code 111 above.
CODE: 311
PROBLEM: Output thermistor failure. Check the thermistor and its wires on the heat exchanger. Replace the thermistor if you don't see a loose or disconnected wire.
CODE: 321
PROBLEM: Input / Inlet thermistor failure. Check the thermistor and its wires at the water inlet. Replace the thermistor if you don't see a loose or disconnected wire.
CODE: 331
PROBLEM: Mixing Thermistor failure
CODE: 341
PROBLEM: Thermistor failure
CODE: 391
PROBLEM: Air-fuel ratio rod failure. Check wire connections and if no loose wire, replace the AFR rod.
CODE: 441
PROBLEM: Flow Sensor Failure (Easy-Link or Multi-Link System Only)
CODE: 510
PROBLEM: Gas valve failure. Inadequate gas pressure or flow.
CODE: 551
PROBLEM: Gas solenoid valve failure. Check gas supply and if no problem the solenoid needs replacement.
CODE: 611
PROBLEM: Abnormal fan motor
CODE: 621
PROBLEM: Exhaust fan motor (indoor models only)
CODE: 631
PROBLEM: Pump Failure
CODE: 651
PROBLEM: Flow Adjustment Valve Fault (Easy-Link or Multi-Link System only)
CODE: 661
PROBLEM: Bypass valve fault (540 (T-H3) model only)
CODE: 681
PROBLEM: External fan motor failure
CODE: 701
PROBLEM: Computer board failure; check for loose wires, electrical power supply, signs of damage to the board such as black or brown marks indicating overheating or burned
CODE: 711
PROBLEM: High Limit Switch / Overheat Cutoff Fuse Circuit is Compromised
CODE: 721
PROBLEM: False flame detected. Check for condensate accumulation, blocked or missing condensate drain, condensate leaks.
CODE: 741
PROBLEM: Remote control not communicating with the water heater, check remote batteries, check remote sensor wiring, remote control access line of sight.
CODE: 751
PROBLEM: Temperature Controller Problem
CODE: 761
PROBLEM: Communication Error in Easy-Link or Multi-Link System.
CODE: 941
PROBLEM: Abnormal exhaust temperature
CODE: 991
PROBLEM: Improper gas combustion. Abnormal combustion.
Takagi Appliance Error Codes
Takagi appliance fault codes
Takagi appliance diagnostic codes
Takagi appliance error symbols
Takagi appliance common faults
Very good product! We are very happy with our new tankless water heater.
Purchased last summer when my tank water heater gave up the ghost. I waited until December to rate it because I wanted to see how it preformed under winter conditions. My home is in the Colorado Rockies at an altitude of nearly 8000 feet and the water incoming into my house 34 degrees. This water heater has preformed flawlessly under those challenging conditions.
I've had this sitting in the garage waiting for me to install it for 8 months now. Our current 50 gallon tank was only 3 years old so I wasn't in any hurry. I relocated where the heater was installed a few feet and tore down the old closet in the garage the tank was in so just for that reason going tankless is a good thing. Now I have a lot more garage space. I'm a plumber by trade but not really in the industry any longer so I had installed hundreds of tank type heaters in my life. We were always of the belief that these tankless instant type heaters were a joke. That might have been true several years ago but they've come a long way since. The install was a little tedious. If you aren't moving your location then it will be a lot easier. You will almost certainly need to upsize your gas piping though. Most tanks use 1/2" gas piping and you can't run 1/2" very far if you intend to get the 200K BTUs these units require. I only had a 10' run of 1/2" but I didn't want to take a chance so I upsized to 3/4". Other than just the labor involved the install is relatively straight forward, not much unlike a tank heater install. I could not get used to the idea of using PVC pipe for a vent but, after firing the unit for the first time I'm almost surprised it needs any vent. No heated air comes out of this thing, it's like it's 100% efficient. I fired my unit initially with only a 3 foot section of PVC stuck through the ceiling and I crawled into the attic just to gauge the temperature of the exhaust gas. Well, there was none. I assumed the unit wasn't heating but it was. 125 degree water right at the tap and virtually no hot gas exhausting out the vent. Quite impressive! And the thing is almost dead silent when it runs. Time will tell if it's as good as it started off but so far I have no regrets. The first shower I took with it last night after working all day on sure was nice, and plenty warm. I will miss my water circulation pump though, with our tank heater we were able to have instant hot water right at the faucet. The pump we have now is not usable with this tankless heater and I'm certain what options are available for that. Having to run water for a couple of minutes sort of seems like a waste to me, I guess water is cheaper than gas but still.
I installed this unit a couple of weeks ago, and it's been working like a charm. It was pretty easy to install, but I'm a pretty handy guy, so I don't know how easy it would be for a regular joe. Its flow rate of 10gpm assumes you're not heating the water to 131 degrees, which I am. The higher the temperature set point, the less throughput because it takes longer to get the water up to temperature. I originally installed a Takagi T-KJr2-IN-NG Indoor Tankless Water Heater, Natural Gas , with a rated GPM of 6, but the flow was so low at 131 degrees (2.9) that it took almost 20 minutes to fill the tub for a bath. This unit, even at 131 degrees, has a flow rate undistinguishable from the 50-gallon tank water heater it replaced. Of course, it cost twice as much as the T-KJr2, so that makes sense. This is a condensing unit, which means it puts out water that must be drained appropriately. If you don't have a drain nearby, that's going to be a problem. The condensate is because this unit improves efficiency with a secondary heat exchanger, which extracts what otherwise would be waste heat exiting up the flu. Instead those hot gasses are used to help heat the water, and the much cooler gas is then vented up the flu. This cooling of the gasses causes water to condense out of those gasses; thus the need for a drain tube. How much heat does this save? Well, the vent for the T-KJr2 was too hot to touch when the unit was in operation; with this unit the vent is barely warm to the touch. In fact, instead of having to use double-walled stainless steel venting, I was able to use 3" PVC tubing. If you have very hard water, don't expect a trouble-free existence with any tankless unit. They are very sensitive to scale buildup (as is any water heater, but tankless units particularly so). My house is equipped with a Culligan whole-house water softener, but in the interest of overkill, I installed two filters ( DuPont WFPF13003B Universal Whole House 15,000-Gallon Water Filtration System ) upstream of the water softener. So before the water gets to the water heater, it passes through a sediment filter, a carbon filter, and then a water softener. According to my HVAC guy, this will greatly extend the life of the water heater. (The two filters also means I can now drink water right out of the tap, anywhere in the house, without that nasty chlorine taste.) In short, I highly recommend this unit. Plus, it looks really cool!
1st off, I LOVE this Tankless Water Heater. I honestly could not be more satisfied. I have had zero issues or concerns. Any problem or complaint anyone has posted has not been an issue for me. It has been and is working flawlessly. It has been in service for about 4 months now. Installation is paramount. Have it done professionally by someone that has installed them before. Like my headline says "Do your due diligence researching what you need for installation." Should any problem arise I will update this review. Yes, I would absolutely buy this again.