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Dishwasher Troubleshooting

DISHWASHER DOES NOT DRAIN 
If your dishwasher is not draining, you may see water at the bottom of the tub. If excessive water is standing in the bottom of dishwasher, there are a few things that can cause this issue. 
Check for a blockage: 
On models with a Fine and Ultra Fine filter, remove and check the Ultra Fine filter and Fine filter underneath. For more information, visit: Dishwasher - How to Clean Fine and Ultra Filters. 
On models without an Ultra Fine filter at the bottom of the tub, 1-2 cups of clean water covering the bottom of the tub is normal. 
On models with an Ultra Fine Filter, water in the sump (filter area) is normal, but should not cover the bottom of the dishwasher. 
Make sure there is not paper or large objects covering or blocking the sump area in the rear of the tub. Clear out large pieces of food from the bottom of the dishwasher, like noodles, lettuce, bones, etc. 
Check the drain hose where it connects below the sink for blockage or a kink in the hose. New dishwashers come with a white corrugated drain hose, which should be used. Re-using old, worn out drain hoses may promote kinking and blockage. 
Make sure the kitchen sink drain is not clogged. If a disposer is installed, run the disposer to clear the drain system. Do not put hands into the garbage disposer, as serious injury could result. You should always turn on your garbage disposer prior to running the dishwasher to clean out any food or debris within the drain system. 
If an air gap is installed, remove the cap and remove any debris. Clearing the air gap will allow water to flow better as the dishwasher drains.  
If a disposer was recently installed or replaced, make sure the drain plug inside the disposer was removed.  
Do not use drain cleaner in the dishwasher. 

DISHWASHERS - BLINKING LIGHTS OR BEEPING SOUNDS 
Dishwashers equipped with an electronic control may start displaying blinking lights or have beeping sounds. This alerts the user that the dishwasher may need attention. 
Beeping Sound, Blinking, and Will Not Start: 
A beeping sound every 30 seconds: Indicates the dishwasher door was unlatched during the cycle. Close the dishwasher door to resume the cycle. 
Blinking "Start/Reset" light: Indicates that the dishwasher has been reset and is in the process of turning off. This light will blink for 75 to 90 seconds, depending on the model. View a short video about blinking lights: 
Other blinking lights or beeping sounds: May indicate a problem with the dishwasher caused by power surges. Try pressing the "Start/Reset" pad to reset the dishwasher and wait 2 minutes. If the problem persists, reset (reboot) the dishwasher by turning off power to the unit at the house circuit breaker/fuse box for 30 seconds. Restore power and the dishwasher should function normally. 

DISHWASHERS - WILL NOT RUN, HAS LIGHTS OR SOUND 
If your dishwasher will not start, but has power (light or sound), then there are a few things you can do to get the dishwasher to run again. 
Check the Control Lock Feature 
Control Lock Feature: Electronic models have a child lock-out feature to prevent the dishwasher from accidentally being turned on.  
Door Not Latching Properly 
Make sure there is nothing preventing the door from closing securely, like trim, insulation, the countertop, etc. 
Make Sure the Delay Start is Not On 
On models with a delay hours button, the delayed start feature may be activated.  
Sleep Mode 
Some models have a Sleep/Sabbath Mode, which turns off all lights and sounds to turn this feature on/off. 
Demo Mode 
Make sure the dishwasher is not in Demo Mode. For more information, view: Dishwasher - Demo Mode. 
Dishwasher Making a Slight Humming Noise But Will Not Run 
Models starting with GDF/GDT/PDT/CDT/DDT/ADT/ZDT: Add one pint of hot tap water to the bottom of the dishwasher and allow it to run for five minutes. 
For other models, view: Hums and Will Not Fill. 
Check if the Flood Float is Stuck 
GDF/GDT/PDT/CDT/DDT/ADT/ZDT models, view: Dishwasher Flood Float. 
Leak Detection Feature 
For models with an LCD display you may have a leak protection feature that is preventing your dishwasher from running.  

DISHWASHER POOR WASH PERFORMANCE 
If there is food or detergent residue left on your dishes, there are a few things you can do to resolve this issue. 
INSTALLATION 
Make sure the dishwasher is connected to the hot water line and not to cold. 
Is the dishwasher level from side to side and front to back? Improper leveling can lead to a number of cleaning issues, including affecting how well it can drain the dirty water from the tub. 
A drain hose installed over 72"H will not drain well and can affect wash performance. 
INCOMING WATER 
Check the water temperature. Proper water temperature is essential to achieve optimum results from your dishwasher and the detergent. Hot water is needed to dissolve and activate the detergent so that it can loosen and remove common food soils. The hot water heater should be set to deliver at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit water to the dishwasher. 
To check the water temperature, run the hot water at the kitchen sink and measure the temperature of the running water with a candy or meat thermometer. Adjust the temperature of the water heater accordingly. 
To be sure that the dishwasher is filling with the hottest possible water, run the hot water faucet at the kitchen sink prior to operating the dishwasher. 
Avoid running the dishwasher during or immediately after hot water is being used for other activities, like filling a bathtub, etc. 
Check the water pressure. The water pressure to the dishwasher should be 20 - 120 PSI (3/8" O.D. copper water line or 1/2" O.D. plastic water line). 
CYCLE SELECTION 
Check the wash cycle selection. Select the appropriate cycle for the dish load. Selecting a short or light wash cycle may save water and energy, but may not provide proper wash action for a heavily soiled load. If food remains on the dishware after the cycle, a longer cycle may be required. 
Use the added heat options to increase water temperature inside of the dishwasher. For example, use "Hot Start", "Added Heat", "Wash Heat Boost" or similar options if your dishwasher is equipped with these features. 
On models with Single Rack wash or Wash Zones (Upper & Lower wash), make sure this feature is not selected.  
DETERGENT / RINSE AID 
For optimal wash performance, we recommend using a high rated detergent, such as Finish Quantum Powerball , and a rinse agent. 
Do not use liquid dish detergents that are not made for automatic dishwashers.  
Check the amount of detergent and the water hardness.  
FOOD DEBRIS 
Excessive amounts of food may clog the dishwasher filters and reduce wash performance. If any jets (holes) within the wash arms are blocked, use a small object such as a paper clip or tweezers to loosen and remove the debris. Be careful not to damage the jets in any way as that will affect wash performance. 
On models with a removable ultra-fine and fine filter, take out the filters and clean them. These filters should be cleaned once a month to ensure optimum wash performance. Dishwasher - How to Clean Fine and Ultra Filters 
To prevent food debris from entering the dishwasher, scrape dishes before placing them in the dishwasher.

Microwave Troubleshooting

MICROWAVE RUNS BUT DOES NOT HEAT 
If the microwave runs but is not heating, it could be one of many components. 
Make sure the Timer function was not inadvertently used. 
Check to ensure the door is closed firmly. Close it firmly, but do not slam. This confirms the engagement of the door's safety mechanisms. 

MICROWAVE - CAVITY REPAIR NEEDED DUE TO ARCING, CHIPPING, PEELING OR SCORCHING 
Arcing is the microwave term for sparks in the oven, which can be caused by metal or foil touching the side of the oven, using metal utensils or improper placement of the metal rack on the shelf supports.  
In the event of a hole in the microwave s cavity wall, the damage is non-repairable and you should discontinue use of the product. It is also recommended that the microwave be replaced if arcing continues to occur. 
Minor chips to the coating on the microwave's interior cavity will not affect the product's performance. 
If the coating is actively flaking or paint is peeling anywhere inside the oven cavity (including under the turntable) discontinue the use of the microwave and replace it. The microwave is not repairable. 
The cavity coating in our microwave ovens is selected to be safely used as a food-contact surface and meets our and applicable government requirements for such use. 
No lead or other toxic materials are added to the cavity coating material used in our microwave ovens. 
The inadvertent ingestion of small amounts of peeling coating does not create a health risk. 

MICROWAVE TOUCH CONTROL PANEL NOT OPERATING CORRECTLY 
If the microwave key panel is not responding or working properly, check the following: 
Make sure that the microwave is plugged into a grounded outlet. It must be a 3-prong outlet. 
Make sure the clock is set. 
Check to see if a programming sequence was entered. Sometimes improper programming or a program sequence such as delay start can cause the touch panel to be non-responsive. Unplug microwave or turn off house circuit breaker for 30 seconds. Plug back in, or reset circuit breaker, and try reprogramming unit. 
Check the house circuit breaker. If the microwave is DEAD and there is no display and nothing works- the problem could be a blown fuse or tripped breaker.

Range Troubleshooting

RANGE - OVEN DOOR WON'T UNLOCK 
The Oven Door Has Been Locked Accidentally 
If there is food in the oven, let the oven cool to room temperature and try to unlatch the door. 
If no food or utensils are in the oven, start a self-clean cycle, then hit Clear/Off after 60 seconds. If that does not unlock the door, run a short self-clean cycle (1-2 hours). 
With electronic ranges there is a small chance that turning the circuit breaker off for a few minutes and turning it back on can release the door latch to the "off". 
If door does not unlatch, and you do have food in the oven, wait for oven to cool completely and try again.  
Door Will Not Unlock After Self-Cleaning 
Try the following to unlock the door: 
Disconnect power to range for 30 seconds. 
Reconnect power and see if door will unlatch. 
If door does not unlatch and you do not have food in the oven, set the oven up to clean for 1-2 hours. Wait approximately 30 minutes for the oven to cool and try to unlock the door. If the door unlocks, the control has reset itself and there should not be any other problems. Do not force the latch at anytime. 
If the door will not unlock, you may require service.  
On models with mechanical latches: 
Once the oven is cool after a self-clean cycle (approximately 30-90 minutes), slide the latch over to the left.(Some older models have a latch release button that must be pushed in while sliding the latch over.) 
Models with oven Set and Temperature knobs must have those knobs set in the Clean position before the latch can be moved to the left. If your door won't unlock, try turning those knobs back to Clean, then slide the latch over. Do not force the latch at anytime. 

OVEN PREHEAT TIME TOO LONG 
Preheat time for ranges and ovens varies according to oven type. 
If the oven is installed at its proper voltage (120 volts for gas and 240 volts for electric): 
Electric Ovens with Hidden Bake Elements and Gas Ovens can take 15-20 minutes to preheat 
Electric Ovens with Hidden Bake and the Fast Preheat feature can take 7-10 minutes. 
Ovens with a visible bottom bake element can take 5-10 minutes to preheat. 
This is a normal operation and the preheat time cannot be altered. Factors that will affect the preheat time are: 
Selected temperature (every 25 degree increment above 350 set temperature will add approximately 45-60 seconds to preheat time) 
Starting temperature of the oven 
Room temperature 
Number of racks in the oven (each additional rack will add approximately 30 seconds to preheat time) 
208 volt installation will increase pre-heat time by 25% 
Below 105 volt (gas installation) 
If the oven is taking much longer than normal to preheat: 
First, turn off the circuit breaker for the range, wait 30 seconds, and turn it back on. This makes sure that it is not getting half power. 

WALL OVEN AND RANGES - COOKING TOO SLOW OR TOO FAST 
If the oven is cooking too slow or too fast, the oven thermostat may need to be adjusted (calibrated). 
If you have a new oven or range, the oven has been set correctly at the factory and is more apt to be accurate than the oven which it replaced. When using recipes you've used for a long time, differences in timing or cooking performance between an old and a new oven are not unusual. For the first few uses, follow your recipe times and temperatures carefully and use the rack positions recommended. 
If you still think your new oven is too hot or too hot or too cold, you can adjust the temperature yourself to meet your specific cooking preference. You can also adjust your thermostat if your oven is not new, since thermostats may "drift" from the factory setting over time. 

Refrigerator Troubleshooting

REFRIGERATOR NOT COOLING ENOUGH 
If the refrigerator is running, but not cooling at all or is not cold enough, several factors may influence the temperature. Check the following: 
Check the temperature control settings: 
For Dial or Digital Readout Models, adjust your temperature control by one number higher for a cooler temperature setting. 
For Actual Temperature Readout Models, adjust your temperature control by one degree lower for a lower temperature setting. 
Adjusting the temperature on actual temp models: 
If this is a new unit: 
Allow about 24 hours for the unit to cool down and stabilize after initial installation. If 24 has passed and the controls have been set properly but the unit is still warm, you may need to schedule service. Schedule a service appointment online. 
Make sure that both the refrigerator and freezer contain a reasonable food load. 
Closed containers of water, food or non-perishables will help to stabilize the temperature. This is because the items in the refrigerator absorb the cold, and actually work to help the refrigerator maintain a steady temperature, in much the same way that ice cubes keep a drink cold. When you open the refrigerator door, the cool air rushes out and warm air rushes in. The more items in the refrigerator, the less cool air is needed to keep the refrigerator cold. Therefore, when you close the door again, the refrigerator returns to a stable temperature more quickly. 
Make sure refrigerator and freezer doors can close and can properly seal. 
Check for large items, such as trays, platters, food items (like pizza boxes), and ice behind the ice bin that may interfere with door closure. 
If the doors do not close on their own when partially opened, you may need to adjust the leveling legs or rollers so that the front is higher than the back. Keep adjusting the level until the door closes on its own when you open the door halfway (45 degree angle). 
Make sure door gaskets are sealing properly. 
Adjust your door gasket: 
Check to see if large containers are placed against the back wall of the refrigerator. 
The large containers in back may block the flow of cold air and adversely affect the temperatures in the refrigerator. Move the tall items so they don't block the air flow. 
Check to see if the condenser is dirty. 
To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug the appliance before attempting any maintenance or cleaning. 
When the condenser coils get dirty the sealed system does not operate as efficiently. See Cleaning Condenser Coils on Refrigerator. 
Some refrigerators (2001 and newer) have condenser coils in a location that does not require them to be cleaned. If your model has coils that need to be cleaned, directions will be in your owner's manual. Download a copy of the Owner's Manual. 
2001 and newer compact refrigerators and smaller capacity top freezers still have coils to be cleaned. 
Be sure the refrigerator is installed in an area where the temperature will not go below 60 F (16 C) or exceed 110 F. 
Your refrigerator may not cool normally if installed outside of these temperature ranges. 
Verify that the refrigerator has proper air clearance. 
In general, at least 1 inch of clearance is required on each side, top and back of the refrigerator. Clearance requirements may vary model to model. Please consult your owner s user manual for specific requirements. Download a copy of the Owner's Manual and/or Installation Instructions. 
Make sure the interior lights are going off when the doors are closed. 
To check on most models, close the door slowly. The light should go out when the door opening is reduced to approximately 1 inch. If the light stays on, it may produce heat that affects your refrigerator temperature. 
If the refrigerator door is misaligned, the light will stay on. If the light stays on, your refrigerator will not cool properly. 
If the refrigerator has just been serviced, it could still be in a diagnostic mode. 
Disconnect power to your refrigerator for 30 seconds and this should clear the control panel. The refrigerator should now cool normally. 

REFRIGERATOR - NORMAL SOUNDS AND NOISES MADE 
The normal operation of your refrigerator will cause some sound. The following list contains sounds that are normal. 
A chirping/barking/woof/howl sound can sometimes be heard as the damper door opens/closes. 
A change in fan speed as the refrigerator responds to changes in temperature due to door opening. 
A clicking/tic-tock noise can be heard when the defrost timer switches on and off. 
A click can be heard when the temperature control unit turns the unit on and off. 
A boiling, gurgling, or knocking sound can be heard when the unit is running. This is caused by the circulation of refrigerant. 
Gurgling sound in the door. This sound can be heard just after the door is closed because of the water in drain tube trap area. It can last several seconds. 
A drip may be heard when defrost water is dripping into the pan beneath the refrigerator. 
The icemaker will make a loud noise when cubes are dropped into the bucket. 
A hum or click can be heard when the icemaker fills with water. This sound may be heard once or multiple times. 
A cracking or popping sound can be heard when evaporator coils on Top Mount No Frost models are cooling after defrost. 
Buzzing noises can be heard during and after getting water from the door dispenser. The noise should not last longer than 7 seconds after you stop dispensing. 
Buzzing noise not related to dispensing water (above), The icemaker will make a buzzing sound when it's trying to fill with water. If the buzzing noise can be heard approximately every 15 minutes, check and make sure the water is turned on to the icemaker. 
A snapping sound will be heard about 4 seconds after removing a glass from a dispenser. This is the sound of the dispenser chute closing. 
A clicking noise may be heard after a power shortage. This stems from the compressor trying to re-start itself. The noise could last for 3 to 5 minutes. 
A hissing, sizzling, buzzing, or arching noise may be heard on self-defrost models. This is produced when water drips on defrost heaters. 
On new refrigerators it is not unusual for the door to whistle or squeak. This occurs because the gasket (rubber material around inner perimeter of the door) is sealing very tightly. This noise will stop in a few days once the gasket becomes more pliable. 
Water lines supplying the refrigerator may make a loud bang due to a condition called "water hammer". Water hammer is a knocking or banging noise in a water line that occurs when the water valve opens and closes. This is caused by high water pressure from the house going into the refrigerator. 
A rattle or vibration noise will be heard if the icemaker is on but water is not supplied to it. It is recommended that when the unit is not hooked up to water that the icemaker is turned off. 

REFRIGERATOR NORMAL RUN TIME 
For refrigerators and freezers to maintain proper temperature, the compressor will run much of the time. Newer refrigerators have compressors that are designed to run 80% to 90% of the time. This makes them more energy efficient because the greatest amount of energy is used when the compressor cycles on as opposed to when the compressor is actually running. 
Average operating temperatures: 
Upright or Chest Freezer: 0 degrees F 
Refrigerator: -5 to +8 degrees F (Freezer); 34 to 42 degrees F (Fresh Food) 
Factors that contribute to run time: 
In extremely hot, humid areas, run time may approach 100%. 
Loading the refrigerator or freezer with a large amount of food, especially warm or hot foods. 
An empty or lightly-loaded freezer. The freezer should be at least 3/4 full to maintain proper temperatures and reduce time. 
When the door is opened, some of the heavy, cold air slides out of the cabinet, pulling warm air in at the top. 
Damaged or dirty door gaskets. See Refrigerator Interior and Gasket Care and Cleaning. 
Blocked air vents in the freezer section. 
Dirty condenser coils on models that do not have a NeverClean condenser.  
Interior light not turning off when the door is closed.