McQuay Furnace Repairs
McQuay Furnace Repairs

McQuay Furnace Repairs

If you're looking for help fixing your McQuay Furnace, look no further! Our comprehensive McQuay Furnace repair guide will explain common issues, provide tips, and maybe show you how to repair your appliance.

McQuay manufactures appliances that homeowners have come to trust. Even a trustworthy appliance requires occasional maintenance or repair, however. If you’re in need of McQuay appliance repair from experienced professionals, your local Appliance Helper can help.

Entire unit seems to be off. 
Burner power comes from the main control panel which has a main disconnect switch, a stepdown transformer with primary winding fuses, a 120V secondary winding fuse, and an on-off service switch. If any of these were open, the burner as well as the supply fan would be inoperative. The control system also has firestat type temperature sensors which will shut down the entire unit if supply or return air temperatures exceed set points. On some control systems, the firestats only lock out the supply and return fans. Check main control schematic, as these would not be burner problems. 

Supply fan will operate.  
a. Check the manual reset limit control located between the filters and the supply fan and reset if required. 
b. Check that the control system has energized relay R20 located in the main control panel. 

Resetting flame safeguard does not start motor after the 10 second “Initiate” period is completed. 
a. The LED code may diagnose the problem. 
b. Push the reset button on the burner motor. (Note: If motor is hot and probably tripped, it has to cool sufficiently before it can be reset.) 
c. Remove the left side electrical access cover on the flame safeguard sub-base and test for line voltage at terminal 4 and L2. If powered, the problem is with the burner motor or its associated controls. On Models 1100-2000, terminal 4 only controls a contactor and burner motor power comes from its own circuit breaker. If terminal 4 is dead, check for power to terminals 6 and L2. 
d. IF VOLTAGE IS ZERO: The power is being interrupted by the limit control, the manual reset high or auto reset low gas pressure switches (if included), the low fire end switch on the modulating operator (if included), or relay contact in the main control system. Consult the schematic and determine the interruption. 
e. If voltage is satisfactory at terminals 6 and L2 and terminal 4 does not become energized after 10 seconds, and pressing the safety reset button has no effect, replace the RM7897A. 

Burner motor runs continuously, but burner does not start (pilot LED) does not come on after 30 (60 or 90) seconds. 
a. The LED code may diagnose the problem. 
b. The air switch sensing tube is not in the blower housing and sensing pressure. 
c. The air switch or its wiring is defective. 120 volts should appear between terminals 7 and L2 if airflow switch contacts are made. 

Burner motor starts when the reset button on RM7897A is pressed. The motor runs for 40 (70, 100) seconds and then the burner shuts down and requires manual resetting. 
a. Check Table 6. The LED code may diagnose the problem. 
b. If the PILOT LED did not come on for the 10 seconds before shutdown check for voltage between terminal 10 and L2 during the final 10 seconds before control locks out. If zero voltage, replace the RM7897A. 
c. If the PILOT LED did come on for 10 seconds before shutdown the pilot flame is not igniting or is not being detected by the flame safeguard. Check that the manual gas valves are open. 
d. Check the flame safeguard with a flame simulator. 
1. Close the main gas test cock. 
2. Plug the flame simulator into the flame safeguard. 
3. When the pilot indicator light comes on, touch the simulator G post to ground. If the FLAME LED now comes on the flame safeguard is working, but it is not receiving an adequate flame signal. If the FLAME LED did not come on replace the R7847A amplifier or/and the RM7897A. 

During the 10 second period before shutdown there is: 
a. The LED code may diagnose the problem. 
b. Close the main gas cock (pilot gas cock open) and observe the pilot through the inspection window as it goes through a sequence. 

No spark or flame. 
a. Close the main gas cock (pilot gas cock open) and observe the pilot through the inspection window as it goes through a sequence. 
b. Remove the burner gun assembly and check for shorted ignition electrode, open ignition lead, defective ignition transformer, or loose terminal screw on flame safeguard subbase. Check for voltage between terminal 10 and L2 during the final 10 seconds before the control locks out. If zero voltage, replace the RM7897A. 

Spark but no flame. 
a. Close the main gas cock (pilot gas cock open) and observe the pilot through the inspection window as it goes through a sequence. 
b. Improper pilot and gas adjustments. Connect a manometer to the pilot test tee and adjust. If the specified settings cannot be attained, a problem is indicated. 

Improper pilot air readings. 
a. The pilot air pickup tube is not inserted into the blower housing, is broken, cracked, kinked, or improperly positioned. 
b. Plugged air tube. 
c. Tubing to the pilot burner is not connected, is loose or cracked. 
d. Plugged pilot gas orifice. 

Proper pilot air and gas readings, spark but no pilot flame. 
a. Porcelain sleeve around ignition electrode is not adequately reducing airflow through this opening.  
b. Air in gas lines as a result of inadequate bleeding or recent service work or construction. 
c. Readjustment of pilot air and gas is required. 



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