Established in 1955 and sold in over 140 countries, Beko is recognized as the number one home appliance brand in the European market. Beko is proud to enrich the lives of consumers who are conscious about wellness, their family's health, and nutrition by providing energy-efficient appliances.

Dishwasher Troubleshooting

If you’re experiencing problems with your Beko dishwasher you can run a test cycle, which can help you diagnose and troubleshoot the fault. The test cycle will run through each of the dishwashers functions in short order to try and pin down the source of the malfunction. 

To initiate the test cycle do the following: 

Ensure the dishwasher is switched off. 
Press and hold down the start button and the programme button for three seconds. 
All of the lights on the control panel should flash. 
If a fault has already been detected it will be displayed (see the error code list below). 
Other wise press the start button to commence the test cycle. 
The test cycle will follow this sequence, and stop at any point at which it detects a fault, displaying the relevant error code: 

Drain test 
Water fill test 
Heating and detergent dispenser test 
Water pump test 
Drain test 
Water refill test 
Water inlet and draining test 
Final drainage test

Dryer Troubleshooting

Drying process takes too long. 
Lint filter may not have been cleaned. 
- Clean the lint filter. 
- Meshes of the filter may be clogged. Wash with water. 
Ventilation grids on the front side of the machine are blocked. 
- Remove the objects (if any) that block ventilation in front of the ventilation grids. 
Ventilation is not sufficient since the room where the machine is installed is very small. 
- Open the door and window of the room to avoid the room temperature increase too much. 
Lime deposit has built up on the dampness sensor  
- Clean the dampness sensor. 
Excessive laundry is loaded.  
- Do not load the dryer in excess. 
Laundry is not spun sufficiently   
- Spin your laundry at a higher speed in your washing machine.  

Dryer does not switch on or the program does not start. Dryer does not start when set. 
It may not be plugged in. 
- Make sure that the dryer is plugged in. 
The loading door may be ajar. 
- Make sure the loading door is properly closed. 
Program may not be set or the "Start/Pause/Cancel" button may not have been pressed. 
- Make sure the program has been set and it is not in “Pause” mode. 
"Childproof lock" may be activated. 
- Deactivate the childproof lock. 

Program is interrupted for no reason. 
The loading door may be ajar. 
- Make sure the loading door is properly closed. 
Electricity may be cut off. 
- Press the "Start/Pause/Cancel" button to start the program. 

Laundry has shrunk, become felted or has deteriorated. 
A program not suitable for the laundry type might have been used. 
- Dry only the laundry which is suitable for drying in the dryer. First check the labels on the clothes. 
- Select a program a suitable low temperature setting for the laundry type to dry the clothes.

Range Troubleshooting

Oven emits steam when in use 
- It is normal that steam escapes during operation. >>> This is not a fault. 

Product emits metal noises while heating and cooling. 
- When the metal parts are heated, they may expand and cause noise. >>> This is not a fault. 

Product does not operate. 
- The mains fuse is defective or has tripped. >>> Check fuses in the fuse box. If necessary, replace or reset them. 
- Product is not plugged into the (grounded) socket. >>> Check the plug connection. 

Oven light does not work. 
- Oven lamp is defective. >>> Replace oven lamp. 
- Power is cut. >>> Check if there is power. Check the fuses in the fuse box. If necessary, replace or reset the fuses. 

Oven does not heat. 
- Function and/or Temperature are not set. >>> Set the function and the temperature with the Function and/or Temperature knob/key. 
- In models equipped with a timer, the timer is not adjusted. >>> Adjust the time. (In products with microwave oven, timer controls only microwave oven.) 
- Power is cut. >>> Check if there is power. Check the fuses in the fuse box. If necessary, replace or reset the fuses. 

(In models with timer) Clock display is blinking or clock symbol is on.  
- A previous power outage has occurred. >>> Adjust the time / Switch of the product and switch it on again.

Refrigerator Troubleshooting

The refrigerator does not operate. 
Is the refrigerator properly plugged in? Insert the plug to the wall socket. 
Is the fuse of the socket which your refrigerator is connected to or the main fuse blown out? Check the fuse. 

Condensation on the side wall of the fridge compartment (MULTIZONE, COOL CONTROL and FLEXI ZONE). 
Very cold ambient conditions. Frequent opening and closing of the door. 
Highly humid ambient conditions. Storage of food containing liquid in open containers. Leaving the door ajar. Switching the thermostat to a colder degree. 
Decreasing the time the door left open or using it less frequently. 
Covering the food stored in open containers with a suitable material. 
Wipe the condensation using a dry cloth and check if it persists. 

Compressor is not running. 
Protective thermic of the compressor will blow out during sudden power failures or plugout plug-ins as the refrigerant pressure in the cooling system of the refrigerator has not been balanced yet. Your refrigerator will start running approximately after 6 minutes. Please call the service if the refrigerator does not startup at the end of this period. 
The fridge is in defrost cycle. This is normal for a full-automatically defrosting refrigerator. Defrosting cycle occurs periodically. 
Your refrigerator is not plugged into the socket. Make sure that the plug is properly fit into the socket. 
Are the temperature adjustments correctly made? 
Power might be cut off. 

The fridge is running frequently or for a long time. 
Your new product may be wider than the previous one. This is quite normal. Large refrigerators operate for a longer period of time. 
The ambient room temperature may be high. This is quite normal. 
The refrigerator might have been plugged in recently or might have been loaded with food. Cooling down of the refrigerator completely may last for a couple of hours longer. 
Large amounts of hot food might have been put in the refrigerator recently. Hot food causes longer running of the refrigerator until they reach the safe storage temperature. 
Doors might have been opened frequently or left ajar for a long time. 
The warm air that has entered into the refrigerator causes the refrigerator to run for longer periods. Open the doors less frequently. 
Freezer or fridge compartment door might have been left ajar. Check if the doors are tightly closed. 
The refrigerator is adjusted to a very low temperature. Adjust the refrigerator temperature to a warmer degree and wait until the temperature is achieved. 
Door seal of the fridge or freezer may be soiled, worn out, broken or not properly seated. Clean or replace the seal. Damaged/broken seal causes the refrigerator to run for a longer period of time in order to maintain the current temperature. 

Freezer temperature is very low while the fridge temperature is sufficient. 
The freezer temperature is adjusted to a very low temperature. Adjust the freezer temperature to a warmer degree and check. 

Fridge temperature is very low while the freezer temperature is sufficient. 
The fridge temperature might have been adjusted to a very low temperature. 
Adjust the fridge temperature to a warmer degree and check. 

Food kept in the fridge compartment drawers are freezing. 
The fridge temperature might have been adjusted to a very low temperature. 
Adjust the fridge temperature to a warmer degree and check 

Temperature in the fridge or freezer is very high. 
The fridge temperature might have been adjusted to a very high degree. 
Fridge adjustment has an effect on the temperature of the freezer. Change the temperature of the fridge or freezer until the fridge or freezer temperature reaches to a sufficient level. 
Doors might have been opened frequently or left ajar for a long time; open them less frequently. 
Door might have been left ajar; close the door completely. 
Large amount of hot food might have been put in the refrigerator recently. Wait until the fridge or freezer reaches the desired temperature. 
The refrigerator might have been plugged in recently. Cooling down of the refrigerator completely takes time. 

The operation noise increases when the refrigerator is running. 
The operating performance of the refrigerator may change due to the changes in the ambient temperature. It is normal and not a fault. 
The floor is not even or it is weak. The refrigerator rocks when moved slowly. Make sure that the floor is strong enough to carry the refrigerator, and level. 
The noise may be caused by the items put onto the refrigerator. Items on top of the refrigerator should be removed. 

There are noises coming from the refrigerator like liquid spilling or spraying. 
Liquid and gas flows happen in accordance with the operating principles of your refrigerator. It is normal and not a fault. 

There is a noise like wind blowing. 
Fans are used in order to cool the refrigerator. It is normal and not a fault. 

Condensation on the inner walls of refrigerator. 
Hot and humid weather increases icing and condensation. It is normal and not a fault. 
Doors might have been left ajar; make sure that the doors are closed fully. 
Doors might have been opened frequently or left ajar for a long time; open them less frequently. 

Humidity occurs on the outside of the refrigerator or between the doors. 
There might be humidity in the air; this is quite normal in humid weather. 
When the humidity is less, condensation will disappear. 

Bad odour inside the refrigerator. 
Inside of the refrigerator must be cleaned. Clean the inside of the refrigerator with a sponge, lukewarm water or carbonated water. 
Some containers or package materials might cause the smell. Use a different container or different brand packaging material. 

The door is not closing. 
Food packages may prevent the door’s closing. Replace the packages that are obstructing the door. 
The refrigerator is not completely upright on the floor and rocking when slightly moved. 
Adjust the elevation screws. 
The floor is not level or strong. Make sure that the floor is level and capable to carry the refrigerator. 

Crispers are stuck. 
The food might be touching the ceiling of the drawer. Rearrange food in the drawer.

Washer Troubleshooting

Beko washing machine not draining 
If the water is not draining out of your machine, you may have a problem with your: 
Drain hose: ensure this is not clumped up, folded in on itself or stretched out too far. 
Filter: this may be blocked. If you feel comfortable opening the filter housing to check it for dirt or blockages, do this. Be aware though that when you open the housing there may be water inside. You can drain the water out using a tube, put a container down to catch it and/or get a bunch of towels ready. Rinse the filter and replace it. 
If you don't feel comfortable dealing with any part of your washing machine's workings, it's always worth calling an engineer. 

Beko washing machine not spinning 
A non-mechanical problem which might be affecting your machine's ability to spin might be the type and size of load you've placed inside it. Try not to overload or chronically underload your machine. Also, try not to mix heavy woollen items and towels in the same load as very light items if this is a problem you commonly experience. If that doesn't help, again you might try taking out the filter, rinsing it and clearing out anything which might be blocking it. As above, when you open the draw or door to access your filter you may inadvertently allow water to drain from the machine. Take steps to prepare for this. 

Your machine won't start 
If your Beko washing machine won't start, there's an easy reset process to follow: 
Locate the start, pause and cancel buttons 
Press them all down at the same time for around 3-5 seconds 
Your machine should now be reset 
If that doesn't work, you will need to call an engineer. 

Beko washing machine stuck on cycle 
As far as Beko washing machine common faults go, being stuck on cycle is right up there. Here's where your problem might lie: 
You may have accidentally set your machine to "hold wash" or "rinse hold" 
You may have inadvertently chosen a night cycle program where there is a delay before the machine starts to cycle. 
If you're confident that neither of these is the case, it might be our old friend the filter. Locate this, extract it – being sure, as ever, to prepare for water which might be in the compartment – and clean anything out stray hairpins, loose change, general dirt and the like which might be gumming it up. Rinse and replace. 

The door won't open 
If your Beko washing machine door won't open, you potentially have a very messy problem on your hands. The first thing you'll need to do is make sure that your machine isn't still full of water: 
If there's water in the drum 
If there's still an amount of water in there, the fact that your door won't open might actually be a safety feature designed to save you from a waterlogged kitchen or utility room. There might be some dirt or detritus in the filter making this system activate to prevent the door from opening for your own good! 
If there is water in the drum, first – as detailed above – extract the filter (being careful of the water which may be released by opening the housing), rinse it and replace it. This may be what is preventing your machine from draining, and thus your door from opening. 
If there's no water in the drum 
This is where you'll need some Beko washing machine troubleshooting skills as there are a number of different things which might be wrong: 
Faulty pressure switch: there is a pressure switch inside which tells the machine when the cycle is over. If this is malfunctioning, unplugging your machine from the wall for 10 minutes should fix your problem. This will reset it properly. 
Faulty interlock: if that doesn't help, your interlock may be at fault. This is a very risky thing to diagnose unless you have the right skills and experience. If the simple “on again off again” approach doesn't work, you'll probably need an engineer. Otherwise, you'll be left trying to wedge or wangle the door open, which is an easy way to break it. 
Faulty hinges in a top loading washing machine: the hinges on your washing machine's lid may have worn down. You'll most likely need an engineer to replace them – even if you have correctly diagnosed that this is what your problem is.