Originally a German consumer electronic company, Grundig was founded in 1945 by Max Grundig and eventually headquartered in Nuremberg. It grew to become one of the leading radio, TV, recorder and other electronics goods manufacturers of Europe in the following decades of the 20th century. In the 1970s, Philips began acquiring Grundig AG's shares, leading to complete control in 1993. In 1998, Philips divested Grundig. In 2007, Koç Holding bought Grundig and put the brand under its home-appliances subsidiary Arcelik A.Ş. Koç is a publicly listed conglomerate with more than 80,000 employees.

Aire acondicionado Solución de problemas

The Air Conditioner Won�€�t Turn On 
In addition to checking for problems in your household fuse box, make sure to check the settings at your thermostat. You may simply have forgotten to set a temperature level that will cause your A/C to kick in at the expected time. Also, in some situations, a power surge or a tripped breaker may cause your air conditioner to turn itself off. You can troubleshoot this issue by checking the relevant switches on the indoor and outdoor units. 

The Air Conditioner Won�€�t Cool Properly 
In some circumstances, your air conditioner may turn on, but fail to provide adequate cooling for your home. Two easily solvable air conditioning problems may be responsible for this issue. First, check your thermostat settings and make sure that you have them set low enough to turn the system on at the appropriate time. Also, look for any open windows you might not have noticed previously. If undetected, even one such window can seriously decrease your system�€�s cooling power. 
The underlying cause of air conditioning problems like improper cooling may also be a malfunction in an A/C component called a compressor, which normally moves refrigerant through the system. 

Lack of Adequate Airflow 
A malfunctioning A/C system may fail to circulate enough cool air throughout your home. One of the key causes of this problem is a dirty filter somewhere in the system. To troubleshoot this issue, check all relevant locations and replace any filter with obvious signs of dirt/dust accumulation. 
Lack of adequate air conditioner airflow may also be the result of a dirty condenser coil. Problems in this area often arise when something obstructs the passage of air into your outdoor A/C unit (common candidates include leaves, debris and nearby hedges.) In turn, the obstructed flow of outdoor air can literally cause the system to freeze up. Look for telltale signs of water on the ground beneath the unit. If you notice any water spots, clear away all obstructions and turn the system off for a few hours. This should give the unit time to thaw out. 

Indoor Air Conditioner Leaks 
All air conditioners generate significant amounts of condensation during normal operation. Depending on where you live, the water produced by this process can total as much as several gallons a day. This large amount of water must have somewhere to go. Usually, it�€�s drained from your air handler through an attached tube or a section of PVC pipe. From there, it�€�s forced outside by gravity or a component called a condensate pump. 
If you notice water pools or active leaks below the indoor unit of your air conditioning system, you have several potential troubleshooting options. First, look for cracks or leaks in the tube or pipe responsible for channeling condensation out of the unit. Next, look for any signs of obstruction within the tube/pipe. If ice is blocking the line, you can follow up by checking for dirty air filters and a lack of adequate refrigerant. 

Strange Vent Noises 
Strange or unusual noises coming from your air conditioning/heating vents have a number of possible causes. Most of the time, what seems like air conditioning problems is nothing more than furniture obstructing the system�€�s return or supply vent openings. However, the humming, thumping or rattling sounds you hear may also indicate the presence of a clogged air filter. Unfortunately, if your troubleshooting steps eliminate these potential candidates, you may have bigger problems, including worn-out A/C system components or poorly installed or inadequately sized air ducts.

Distancia Solución de problemas

Bake Element 
When the bake element is heating properly, it glows red hot. If the element does not glow red, this indicates that the element is not heating. Often, if the heating element has burned out, it will be visibly damaged. Inspect the heating element for holes or blisters. To determine if the bake element has burned out, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the bake element does not have continuity, replace it. 

Igniter 
The igniter is the most commonly defective part for a gas oven that won't turn on. The igniter has two main functions. First, the igniter draws electrical current through the oven safety valve to open it. Second, the igniter gets hot enough to glow and ignite the gas in the burner assembly. If the igniter gets weak, it will fail to open the safety valve correctly. If the valve does not open, the oven will not heat. To determine if the igniter is defective, observe the igniter when the oven is on. If the igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without igniting the gas flame, this indicates that the igniter is too weak to open the valve. If the igniter is weak, replace it. If the igniter does not glow at all, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it. 

Bake or Broil Spark Electrode 
For bake & broil burner ignition an oven burner spark electrode is used to ignite the gas. The electrode is a device that sits right next to the burner. It functions like a spark plug. As power is applied to it a spark jumps from the spark electrode tip to the to the electrode shield, igniting the gas. If the electrode is broken or worn out the spark may not occur. Visually inspect the electrode assembly for cracks in the porcelain housing or damage to the electrode tip itself. Be aware that a proper ground and the correct polarity of the incoming voltage to the range is necessary for the electrode control to sense the presence of a flame once the burner is ignited. If the burner goes off after ignition check for proper ground and the correct polarity at the wall outlet. 

Broil Element 
When the broil element is heating properly, it glows red hot. If the element does not glow red, this indicates that the element is not heating. Often, if the broil element has burned out, it will be visibly damaged. Inspect the broil element for holes or blisters. To determine if the broil element has burned out, use a multimeter to test the element for continuity. If the broil element does not have continuity, replace it. 

Incoming Power Problem 
Electric ovens require 240 volts of alternating current. Gas ovens require 120 volts. If an oven won't turn on there could be an incoming power problem. To determine if the electrical outlet is providing sufficient voltage, use a multimeter to test the incoming power at the wall socket. 

Thermal Fuse 
The thermal fuse trips if the oven overheats. If the thermal fuse has blown, the oven will not turn on. However, this is not a common occurrence. To determine if the thermal fuse is at fault, use a multimeter to test the fuse for continuity. If the thermal fuse does not have continuity, replace it. The thermal fuse cannot be reset�€�if the fuse has blown, you must replace it. 

Loose or Burnt Wire Connection 
One of the wires that supply power to the oven element or igniter might be burnt out. These wires commonly burn out near the heat source. To determine if a wire has burned out, inspect the wires leading to the element or igniter. If a wire is burned out, it will often be visibly burnt. 

Oven Control Board 
The oven control board has relays that send voltage to the bake and broil circuits according to the user settings and sensor input. If the control board is defective, it may not send voltage to the heating components. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the control board, first test all of the heating components. If you determine that all of the heating components are working properly, replace the oven control board. Since it�€�s not easy to test the oven control board, you will have to replace the control board if you suspect it is defective. 

Relay Board 
Some ovens are equipped with a relay board. The relay board has several relays which control the voltage to the heating element. If one or more of the relays on the relay board fails, the oven won�€�t heat. However, this rarely occurs. Before replacing the relay board, first check all of the heating components in the oven. If none of the heating components are defective, the relay board might be at fault. If the relay board is defective, replace it. 

Lavadora Solución de problemas

Programme won�€�t start 
This could be due to a supply problem related to voltage or water pressure. Causing the machine to switch to self-protection mode. Faulty wall sockets or sockets that have been switched off may be the culprit. You�€�ll need to get an electrician to doublecheck for blown fuses and investigate the door interlock system. 

Water won�€�t drain 
There are several reasons why this problem may occur. It could be that the drain hose is twisted or blocked. Or the pump filter may be clogged. All sorts of objects can get trapped in the drain pump. From coins to small items of clothing. Your technician will drain your machine with an emergency drain hose if necessary. 

Water leaks from underneath 
Seals that are wearing or not connected properly to the water inlet hoses are likely to be the cause here. Hoses also need to be tightly attached to the taps. If the pump filter isn�€�t fully closed this will also give a water leak from the bottom of the machine. 

Washing machine won�€�t fill 
If the water inlet hose is kinked or the inlet filter is blocked this won�€�t let the machine fill with water. Another issue could be that the door is nor securely closed. If taps are closed the water will be prevented from getting into the appliance. 

Appliance is vibrating and noisy 
When your washing machine is unstable this will cause vibration. As will the machine leaning against something. Overloading the machine as well as underloading can also trigger distribution issues that lead to noise and vibration. Transportation safety bolts can also initiate shaking. 

Door won�€�t open 
The door lock may sometimes be activated by the level of water in the machine. And will stay locked for two minutes after the programme has finished. If the child lock continues to be engaged there may be an issue with the mechanical part of the door mechanism. 

Timer won�€�t count down 
This could be due to the heater not reaching the selected temperature, an automatic unbalanced load detection system fault, or the washing machine not taking in an adequate amount of water. All of these problems can be easily fixed by a trained engineer. 

Machine goes into safety mode 
If the water intake keeps being disrupted. And is accompanied by a safety message before switching off, this could be due to transit bolts on a brand-new model not being removed. Other safety warnings given at the beginning of the cycle could indicate an electrical fault. 

Rubber seals melt after a high spin 
This is obviously a manufacturing fault especially when accompanied by an acrid smell and smoke. This Grundig washing machine troubleshooting issue needs to be checked out by a qualified engineer. 

Washing performance is poor 
This could be due to an insufficient temperature being selected for the water hardness and the depth of laundry soiling. Using the incorrect amount of detergent will also affect the results. This is not related to the operating procedures �€� use the manufacture�€�s guide to ensure the recommended amounts of detergents are used in conjunction with the correct temperature.

Lavaplatos Solución de problemas

Grundig dishwasher not draining 
If water remains in your dishwasher at the end of the programme this indicates that the filters are clogged and the filter system requires cleaning. Other causes can be a blockage in the discharge hose which will need to be cleared or an obstruction in the drain pump which will need to be taken apart. 

Grundig dishwasher not filling 
If there�€�s not any water in your dishwasher the problem may lie with the water supply connection or the inlet hose. Other components that can cause your dishwasher not to fill are the water inlet valve which can become blocked or damaged and the float switch which monitors the water level. If the float itself gets stuck, the float switch is unable to disengage, preventing water from getting into your appliance. 

Grundig dishwasher with no water light 
The check water light is an indication that there�€�s an issue with the water supply or drainage and a sign that your appliance has overfilled with water and is leaking. If your dishwasher is displaying that there�€�s no water this may have been triggered by your appliance being unable to fill (see above). 

Grundig dishwasher buttons not working 
If some of the buttons respond but others don�€�t this indicates that there�€�s a problem with the touchpad, which may need replacing. If your dishwasher display is working but some of the buttons still won�€�t respond, the touchpad and the control panel might need to be replaced. Alternatively, the main control board may be unable to send voltage to the touchpad causing these issues. 

Grundig dishwasher not working 
When your appliance won�€�t start the cause is typically related to the incoming power supply. Checks will need to be safely made on power cables, sockets, switches, and fuses. Other reasons can be due to the door not being closed securely or an issue with the water supply. 

Grundig dishwasher not heating 
The heating element will need to be tested here as this is the component that heats the water. Deposits of limescale can cause the element to fail prematurely and a multimeter will be needed to test the resistance. Other problems can be related to a faulty thermostat whose job is to regulate the water temperature throughout the wash programme. If this part is defective your dishwasher won�€�t know when to turn the heating element on. 

Grundig dishwasher leaking 
If your dishwasher has a leak, the anti-flood protection may have been activated, stopping the inlet valve from functioning. Other common causes for leakage are the door hinge and seals which normally have a hinge pulley system that stops the door from falling open. If the door becomes loose or heavy these parts may need replacing. 

Grundig dishwasher not washing dishes clean 
There are a number of reasons for this and they include. 

Impellers are stuck or impeller holes are blocked 
Filters are incorrectly installed or clogged. 
Baskets are overloaded. 
Detergent or rinse aid isn�€�t sufficient. 
Grundig dishwasher stuck in Demo Mode. 
You may find that a solution to this issue is to turn off the power at the socket and quickly press and hold the on/off button for 5 seconds.

Refrigerador Solución de problemas

Grundig refrigerator compressor not functioning optimally  
It would be unfair to say this problem is exclusive to Grundig fridge freezers, and this is, in fact, one of the most common complaints of technically savvy fridge owners. 
Your Grundig refrigerator�€�s compressor can malfunction. The effect of this is commonly seen in the fridge unusually tripping. 
Several things can cause this defective compressor. The prevailing is sudden power surges or power failures.  
It is not unusual for the compressor�€�s protective thermic to blow out when the power supply is suddenly interrupted. 
If your MCB circuit breakers have not been damaged, your fridge may start working again with the compressor�€�s functionality becoming restored.  
This should happen within six minutes of power getting restored. But if the power-related inadequacies hurt your circuit breakers, your compressor wouldn�€�t work. When this happens, you are advised to get the services of a Grundig Authorized Service Agent. 

Grundig Freezer Temperature is too low 
In our survey of the problems Grundig fridge owners commonly face, low freezer temperature came top of the list. Here, the freezer forms frost rather too quickly.  
The conventional temperature range for contemporary fridges sits between 0ºF and 5ºF. Anything lesser than that could be too low. 
Yes, some homeowners may inadvertently adjust their freezers to extremely low temperatures. But more typically, very low freezer temperatures result from poor airflow. The latter is more associated with a defective air damper. 
When your Grundig air damper goes bad, an excessive amount of cold air is stored in your freezer. The implication is the compressor working too hard to replenish the cold air that is incorrectly stationed in the freezer instead of the fridge. 
Should this be the case, carefully inspect your freezer if any item is binding the damper. To ensure that the control is efficiently operating the damper, you would need to unplug the fridge and take off the damper cover. 

Condensation on Grundig�€�s refrigerator walls 
We have seen many Grundig fridge owners being worried about condensation collecting on their refrigerator walls. This could be on the refrigerator�€�s internal walls or the sidewalls of the fridge section. 
Curiously, such condensation pooling on the refrigerator�€�s walls doesn�€�t imply a severe refrigerator malfunction. In fact, it is normal, especially when the surrounding temperature is slightly elevated. 
In areas of increased humidity, such condensation or icing can also occur on the inner walls of the refrigerator. These conditions can also trigger condensation on the fridge section�€�s sidewalls. When atmospheric humidity levels disappear, the condensation evaporates. 
There could also be cases when moisture collects between the double refrigerator doors. Humidity could yet be responsible. In such conditions, it is necessary to turn off the �€�Energy Saving�€� mode.  
Frequently opening your refrigerator�€�s doors �€� or sustainably leaving the doors ajar �€� can also cause condensation on the walls.  
In other scenarios, a thermostat set to a significantly low temperature can cause such icing on the walls. If true, moderate the thermostat setting back to normal.  

Grundig refrigerator door not properly closing 
This is another familiar inconvenience with Grundig�€�s refrigerators. Yes, it can be really messy as if your Grundig refrigerator doors don�€�t create a perfect seal when they close.  
Cold air emerging from the fridge can permeate your space, making it unnaturally cold. On the other hand, hot air can also escape from the outside into the fridge. The latter can be damaging as your compressor would be forced to overwork unnecessarily.  
The good news is that some simple hacks can help you resolve this. First, ensure that your Grundig refrigerator is resting on an even platform.  
It is important this platform �€� commonly the floor �€� is robust enough to accommodate the weight of the refrigerator without caving in or tilting. 
If the doors fail to properly close after these preliminary procedures, check the food arrangement in the refrigerator. Start by checking for misaligned shelves that could be impeding the doors.  
Also, inspect for open crisper drawers and misaligned food containers. If you find any, reposition the misaligned items. Otherwise, something could be amiss with the refrigerator door gasket. 
Commonly, dirt, grime, and grease could clog the gasket, particularly the fold interiors. You may proceed to clean the door gaskets with a soft cloth dipped in soapy water (preferably warm).  

Grundig fridge consumes too much energy 
Homeowners are well within their rights to worry about their utility bills. Therefore, it is not the most amicable situation when your fridge pushes your bills through the roof. 
What could be causing such poor energy efficiency in your Grundig refrigerator? 
First, it could be that you leave your refrigerator doors open for too long. Overloading the refrigerator is another reason why energy consumption could increase.  
This is because when the airflow within the refrigerator is hampered �€� consequent to such overloading �€� the fridge�€�s cooling capacity drops, causing the compressor to compensate for that. 
Also, your Grundig refrigerator may exhaust more electrical energy to sustain optimal performance when too directly exposed to sunlight or other heat sources. Such heat sources include stoves, ovens, hobs, and heater sources. 
A minimum clearance of 0.3m is recommended between your Grundig refrigerator and such heat sources. For electric ovens, your Grundig refrigerator should be kept at least 5cm away. 
Thawing frozen items in your Grundig fridge section is one brilliant technique to reduce your refrigerator�€�s energy consumption.  
Also, Grundig advocates using the drawers and baskets that come with its refrigerator�€�s chill section. These facilities are specially optimized for low energy consumption.   
Lastly, one way to improve your refrigerator�€�s energy consumption is to prevent contact between the food stored in the freezer compartment and the temperature sensor.  

Grundig refrigerator is noisy 
It is not uncommon to find Grundig refrigerator owners raise concerns about their refrigerator�€�s noisiness or unnatural vibrations. 
Such noisiness or vibration could arise from the refrigerator being improperly balanced. When the platform on which your Grundig refrigerator rests is not level, the appliance may experience a rocking movement as it works. Such jerks could cause items on the refrigerator to make noise. 
In other cases, you could hear noises emanating from within the refrigerator. This could sound like something being sprayed or liquid flowing on the inside.  
This is normal and not entirely suggestive of a fault. Depending on the operating principles of your Grundig refrigerator, it is not abnormal for gases and liquids to flow inside.  
In situations when you hear sounds like whistles coming from your refrigerator, it could be a problem with the fan. You may consult an authorized technician to check your fridge if the noise is too prominent.

Secadora Solución de problemas

Dryer Does Not Start 
The most common cause for a dryers failure to start is a defective door switch. Door switches take a real beating with the opening and closing of the dryer door. The door switch is a normally open switch that closes when the door is closed. Replacing a door switch is a quick fix that requires only a few simple hand tools and a new switch that costs less than five dollars. To test it simply take a continuity reading through it with the door in the closed position. No continuity indicates a bad switch. 
Occasionally the dryer's electromechanical timers or solid-state controller can cause a failure to start. The dryer will have one or the other located behind the control panel. Electromechanical timers are motor-driven switches that send current to the proper dryer heating element according to the cycle selected. A solid-state controller is a printed circuit board similar to those contained in the back of television sets. 

Dryer Starts But Drum Does Not Turn 
The most common cause of a drum that doesn't turn is a broken drive belt, although a broken idler pulley could be the cause, as well. The drive belt is similar in design to the serpentine drive belts found under the hood of a modern automobile. The dryer's drum drive belt runs around the drum, under the idler pulley and around the pulley on the dryer's drive motor. The spring-loaded idler pulley keeps proper tension on the belt so that there is enough friction between the drive belt and drum to turn the drum with a normal load of clothes in the drum. 

Dryer Does Not Heat 
If the dryer runs but does not get hot, the problem could be a defective heating element, high temperature cutout thermostat, temperature cycling thermostat thermal overload fuse. The thermostats and thermal fuse are located on top of the heating element enclosure and can be seen as soon as you open the top of the dryer. Thermostats are nothing more than temperature-operated switches. The temperature-cycling thermostat opens and closes repeatedly to keep the drum at the selected temperature. The high-limit thermostat is a safety device that keeps the temperature from reaching dangerously high levels if the temperature-cycling thermostat fails to open properly. The thermal fuse is another safety backup to keep the temperature from rising to a dangerous level if both the cycling thermostat and high limit-thermostat fail. Thermal fuses are not resettable and must be replaced once they open. The heating element itself is enclosed and located behind the drum, but can be tested from the top by using its exposed terminal. Thermostats, thermal fuses and heating elements are all tested by taking a continuity reading through them, but testing the operating temperatures of thermostats takes specialized equipment, so simply replace them if you suspect they are not opening properly.