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Takagi Calentador de agua Solución de problemas
Takagi Calentador de agua Solución de problemas

Takagi Calentador de agua Solución de problemas

Si busca ayuda para arreglar su Takagi Calentador de agua, no busque más! Nuestro integral Takagi Calentador de agua La guía de solución de problemas explicará problemas comunes, brindará sugerencias y le mostrará cómo leer los códigos de error de su modelo.

Ventilación inadecuada
El error más común es el uso de la ventilación B estándar, que puede destruir rápidamente el intercambiador de calor debido a la condensación ácida. Una ventilación inadecuada puede causar fugas de gas de escape y se consideraría insegura. Todos los calentadores de agua sin condensación Takagi deben utilizar una tubería de ventilación sellada de acero inoxidable aprobada para su uso en aparatos de categoría III. Todos los modelos de condensación Takagi pueden utilizar tubos de PVC Schedule 40, ABS o acero inoxidable de Categoría III.

Problemas con la línea de suministro de gas
Línea de tamaño insuficiente: Hay una gran tendencia a simplemente "conectarse a la línea de gas existente", que suele ser de sólo ½ pulgada de diámetro. Se debe prestar una atención estricta a la sección de requisitos de la línea de gas en el manual de instalación. Asegúrese de que el tamaño es el máximo de BTU por hora y no el mínimo.

Problemas de flujo de agua/fluctuación de temperatura
Si hay un flujo bajo del calentador, lo primero que hay que comprobar es el filtro de entrada. Cierre el suministro de agua fría, libere la presión de agua caliente y retire el filtro para comprobar si hay residuos. Limpie o sustituya el filtro y vuelva a comprobar el caudal. Si el agua caliente es insuficiente o hay variaciones de temperatura, compruebe si hay "flujo cruzado" en la fontanería, lo que significa que hay una conexión en algún lugar entre el frío y el calor. Esto puede ser tan poco visible como una junta desgastada en un grifo monomando. Para comprobarlo, cierre el suministro de frío al calentador y abra la válvula de alivio de presión o cualquier grifo de agua caliente. Si hay un flujo constante de agua de la salida caliente después de que la tubería se haya vaciado, hay un flujo cruzado en alguna parte de la plomería que debe ser arreglado.

Problemas con el agua dura
En zonas donde el agua es muy dura con altos niveles de calcio y magnesio (alrededor de 7 granos por galón en la aplicación residencial), el agua debe ser tratada con un ablandador de agua o algún otro dispositivo de descalcificación. No utilice un proceso de ósmosis inversa. Destruirá el intercambiador de calor. Eliminar los minerales o mantenerlos en suspensión alargará en gran medida la vida del calentador y reducirá los problemas de servicio.

Cuestiones ambientales
Los calentadores deben instalarse en áreas relativamente limpias con acceso a suficiente aire de combustión que esté libre de polvo, pelusa, grasa o productos químicos. Si se da alguna de estas condiciones, debe instalarse un modelo o kit de ventilación directa. Por esta razón, los restaurantes, los salones de belleza y las aplicaciones industriales siempre deben obtener una unidad de ventilación directa, que extrae su aire de combustión del exterior.



Páginas de códigos de error relacionados:
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Product Reviews:

I've had this sitting in the garage waiting for me to install it for 8
I've had this sitting in the garage waiting for me to install it for 8 months now. Our current 50 gallon tank was only 3 years old so I wasn't in any hurry. I relocated where the heater was installed a few feet and tore down the old closet in the garage the tank was in so just for that reason going tankless is a good thing. Now I have a lot more garage space. I'm a plumber by trade but not really in the industry any longer so I had installed hundreds of tank type heaters in my life. We were always of the belief that these tankless instant type heaters were a joke. That might have been true several years ago but they've come a long way since. The install was a little tedious. If you aren't moving your location then it will be a lot easier. You will almost certainly need to upsize your gas piping though. Most tanks use 1/2" gas piping and you can't run 1/2" very far if you intend to get the 200K BTUs these units require. I only had a 10' run of 1/2" but I didn't want to take a chance so I upsized to 3/4". Other than just the labor involved the install is relatively straight forward, not much unlike a tank heater install. I could not get used to the idea of using PVC pipe for a vent but, after firing the unit for the first time I'm almost surprised it needs any vent. No heated air comes out of this thing, it's like it's 100% efficient. I fired my unit initially with only a 3 foot section of PVC stuck through the ceiling and I crawled into the attic just to gauge the temperature of the exhaust gas. Well, there was none. I assumed the unit wasn't heating but it was. 125 degree water right at the tap and virtually no hot gas exhausting out the vent. Quite impressive! And the thing is almost dead silent when it runs. Time will tell if it's as good as it started off but so far I have no regrets. The first shower I took with it last night after working all day on sure was nice, and plenty warm. I will miss my water circulation pump though, with our tank heater we were able to have instant hot water right at the faucet. The pump we have now is not usable with this tankless heater and I'm certain what options are available for that. Having to run water for a couple of minutes sort of seems like a waste to me, I guess water is cheaper than gas but still.
Published: February 8, 2015
M. Gentry
Source: amazon.com

Purchased last summer when my tank water heater gave up the ghost. I waited
Purchased last summer when my tank water heater gave up the ghost. I waited until December to rate it because I wanted to see how it preformed under winter conditions. My home is in the Colorado Rockies at an altitude of nearly 8000 feet and the water incoming into my house 34 degrees. This water heater has preformed flawlessly under those challenging conditions.
Published: December 19, 2016
Stefan T. Jenny
Source: amazon.com

Very good product! We are very happy with our new tankless water heater.
Very good product! We are very happy with our new tankless water heater.
Published: August 18, 2019
Lisette C.
Source: amazon.com

1st off, I LOVE this Tankless Water Heater. I honestly could not be more sa
1st off, I LOVE this Tankless Water Heater. I honestly could not be more satisfied. I have had zero issues or concerns. Any problem or complaint anyone has posted has not been an issue for me. It has been and is working flawlessly. It has been in service for about 4 months now. Installation is paramount. Have it done professionally by someone that has installed them before. Like my headline says "Do your due diligence researching what you need for installation." Should any problem arise I will update this review. Yes, I would absolutely buy this again.
Published: September 26, 2020
Jeff C.
Source: amazon.com

I installed this unit a couple of weeks ago, and it's been working lik
I installed this unit a couple of weeks ago, and it's been working like a charm. It was pretty easy to install, but I'm a pretty handy guy, so I don't know how easy it would be for a regular joe. Its flow rate of 10gpm assumes you're not heating the water to 131 degrees, which I am. The higher the temperature set point, the less throughput because it takes longer to get the water up to temperature. I originally installed a Takagi T-KJr2-IN-NG Indoor Tankless Water Heater, Natural Gas , with a rated GPM of 6, but the flow was so low at 131 degrees (2.9) that it took almost 20 minutes to fill the tub for a bath. This unit, even at 131 degrees, has a flow rate undistinguishable from the 50-gallon tank water heater it replaced. Of course, it cost twice as much as the T-KJr2, so that makes sense. This is a condensing unit, which means it puts out water that must be drained appropriately. If you don't have a drain nearby, that's going to be a problem. The condensate is because this unit improves efficiency with a secondary heat exchanger, which extracts what otherwise would be waste heat exiting up the flu. Instead those hot gasses are used to help heat the water, and the much cooler gas is then vented up the flu. This cooling of the gasses causes water to condense out of those gasses; thus the need for a drain tube. How much heat does this save? Well, the vent for the T-KJr2 was too hot to touch when the unit was in operation; with this unit the vent is barely warm to the touch. In fact, instead of having to use double-walled stainless steel venting, I was able to use 3" PVC tubing. If you have very hard water, don't expect a trouble-free existence with any tankless unit. They are very sensitive to scale buildup (as is any water heater, but tankless units particularly so). My house is equipped with a Culligan whole-house water softener, but in the interest of overkill, I installed two filters ( DuPont WFPF13003B Universal Whole House 15,000-Gallon Water Filtration System ) upstream of the water softener. So before the water gets to the water heater, it passes through a sediment filter, a carbon filter, and then a water softener. According to my HVAC guy, this will greatly extend the life of the water heater. (The two filters also means I can now drink water right out of the tap, anywhere in the house, without that nasty chlorine taste.) In short, I highly recommend this unit. Plus, it looks really cool!
Published: February 19, 2016
Wordwrkr
Source: amazon.com

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